Today started at a reasonably civilised hour and I soon discovered that there was cricket on the TV (Aus v Sth Africa from the MCG) so I watched the first 15 overs of Australia’s innings, which went pretty well. I am really starting to feel ready to be back in oz now and I think the exposure I’ve had to the cricket over the last few weeks is a large part of it. January in Australia, for those that aren’t aware, is all about doing very little and watching cricket. I sort of almost feel home, which is good as I’ll be there in just over two weeks.
After feeling assured that Australia would post a decent score, I headed out, around the corner for my standard noodle soup breakfast, found the first copy of The Guardian that Ive seen since I left London, and then started wandering around the old town, which consists of an inordinately large number of temples for such a small place. I wandered into a couple and took some photos (it’s so nice to have a decent camera back in my hands), before I stumbled across these amazing metal sculptures of alien and predator, outside an otherwise unremarkable cafe.

After that rather random but very pleasing find, I continued on to Wat Phra Singh, one of the largest temples in Chiang Mai, which is pretty impressive.

Next stop was Wat Suan Dok, a large temple and monastery complex a little way west of the old city, across the western moat. This was an even more impressive temple where you have the opportunity to chat with the english-speaking monks, though I wasn’t there at the right time to take advantage of this.
I then caught a tuk-tuk back to the guesthouse to check the cricket score (272 – pretty respectable, though the South African commentators kept reminding everyone that Australia has never beaten them in a one-day match at the MCG before), and then arranged to hire a motorbike from the travel agency attached to the guesthouse.
After a few sketchy moments while I familiarised myself with the gears (the bike I had on Koh Tao was fully automatic so I was a bit spoilt by that), I made my way west of the old city and stopped near Wat Suan Dok for a very good bbq pork with rice, and then continued westwards towards the mountain-top wat at Doi Suithep.
A couple of kilometres up the hill I started to realise that although the red zone on the fuel gauge was pretty large, the needle was moving steadily through it, and it started to seem unlikely that I would make it all the way up and back without refueling. I therefore reluctantly turned around and headed back into town to find a petrol station. I managed, through one wrong turn, to turn this into something of a mission around the other suburbs of Chiang Mai, and I finally found one about 20 minutes later, with the needle right on empty. 90p later, I had a full tank and was back in business.
I charged up the hill as the sun was now starting to dip behind the other mountains, and made it up to Doi Suithep just in time to catch the last rays of sun for the day. After marching up the 300 steps to the temple itself and taking a few shots, I headed back down the hill in what became an increasingly cold journey. I had brought my light fleece with me but didn’t think it worth stopping to put it on – this was a decision I was to regret later.

Once back at the guesthouse, I discovered that we’d lost the cricket (oh well) and then picked up my laptop and headed around the corner to Kafe 1985 who have a surprisingly good wi-fi connection – well the upload speeds are good anyway, which is important when uploading photos, which is what I proceeded to do over a couple of quiet Singha beers.
A bit after 8, I headed over to a restaurant called Outdoors (where you sit, outdoors) to meet Charlie, Mia and Charlie’s boyfriend Michi for a lovely dinner – Tom Ka Gai (sour coconut) soup, steamed fish, tempura veg and fried rice, washed down with three pitchers of frozen cocktails of varying shades of green and blue (the last one, called kamikaze, looked suspiciously artificial). By now, despite wearing my long-forgotten long-sleeved shirt and my long trousers, I was now actually quite cold. Clearly the frozen drinks weren’t helping but I was beginning to understand why the others were wearing multiple layers, including parkas – though they’re clearly a bit more acclimatised than I am.
After dinner, Charlie and Michi set off on Michi’s new, very fast red motorbike and Mia and I followed on foot to a nightclub called Discovery, where we found ourselves a table amongst the young pretty locals. The standard approach here is to buy a bottle of scotch, some pepsi and soda water and work through these as a group (it does work out pretty cheap), though cheap scotch and soda is not a particular favourite of mine. We joined in with this and sat and watched a couple of pretty decent local bands do their thing, though the bass was up far too loud and we were sitting right in front of the ridiculously large speakers so this was something of an assault on the eardrums, and as we didn’t know any of the songs, we didn’t really get full value out of this entertainment. Just before midnight, as I was about to make my excuses and head home (I wasn’t feeling great), the lights came on and the police marched in for an “ID check”. While there certainly were some young people around (it was a mainly student crowd, I think), the consensus was that this had more to do with the club not having paid sufficient bribes of late. It certainly was extremely disruptive to business but also provided an excellent opportunity for me to make my exit. They weren’t interested in seeing my ID, nor Charlie and Mia’s, though they did check Michi’s (he’s Japanese-American so isn’t quite so obviously a farang i suppose).
After a very cold tuk-tuk ride back to the guesthouse, I tucked myself into bed and promptly drifted off to the faraway tree.
More Chiang Mai photos here
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Thailand - December 08, January & February 09