Lake Bohinj
Qantas agreed to push my flight home back a day without charge, which was just as well really. I therefore had some time up my sleeve in which to do some more exploring.
The guy at the hiking shop gave me two recommendations in response to my request for suggested mountains to climb, both of which originated in the same town. So, after another ridiculously early rising (jetlag is not all bad) and a couple of hours of work, I hopped on the very comfortable local bus for the half hour journey west to Lake Bohinj (pron Baw-heen). This was also one of the places that my brother-in-law’s very important boss (of Slovenian extraction) had recommended I visit, so my expectations were quite high.
And I was not to be disappointed. This valley really has the wow factor. I know because I said it out loud, more than once.
A thick layer of mist sat across the valley and the lake itself was a sheet of glass. A gorgeous white church sits at the end of the lake next to an old stone bridge. The lake is encircled by dramatic cliffs and steep mountains leading up to higher, rocky peaks. It is a truly magnificent setting which my photos don’t go close to capturing in its full glory.
Lake Bohinj
The bus dropped me at Ukanc, at the western end of the lake. I wasn’t ready to decide yet which route I should take so I thought I’d check out the gondola as this was just up the hill and seemed like the easiest option.
The next gondola was due to leave in about 20 minutes so I had a look around the outdoors shop in the terminal. I then did a very silly thing and bought some more sunglasses, the fourth lot I’ve bought in about a month (though I did return the one expensive pair). I seem to have developed a real problem with sunglasses – part of this is simply because I have an enormous head and most simply don’t fit me, so I’m struggling to find some that I really like. This particular purchase was a particularly odd thing to do as it wasn’t even sunny, and now I’ve got another pair of sunglasses that I only sort of like. The $8 pair I bought in Beijing would have done me fine for the day and I really should have spent 10 Euros on a vinyl rain jacket instead.
Lake Bohinj again
Anyway. I was joined in the gondola by a number of serious looking and rather well-equipped Germans, who seemed to be looking at my flat-soled electric blue sneakers with disdain. I ignored them and turned to watch the two paragliders go through their preparations. That’s something I really will have to try soon.
Within moments of starting our ascent, I could see in detail where the other route went and really wanted to do it. Within a couple more minutes, once the full scale of things was clear, I started to have serious second thoughts as the whole first section was essentially a massive cliff. I seem to remember the guy at the hiking shop had mumbled something about this option being ‘a bit steep’ at the start.
The other route
So, I decided to continue on up this particular mountain. Like most ski areas when the snow’s not around, this wasn’t the prettiest place, but given my fairly poor level of preparedness (I had nothing remotely wind or water-proof) it seemed sensible to stay close to civilisation in case those clouds darkened.
Looking west from the top of the gondola
I spurned the chairlift that continued up the mountain and charged off, up the very rocky slopes. After I’d reached the top of the chairlift, I quickly overtook my fellow gondola riders (so much for all their fancy gear!) and was at the top (1880m) within an hour.
Naturally, there were awesome views in all directions. I found a comfy little spot out of the wind in which to sit and enjoy them and to scribble down most of what you’ve just read.
West
East
When I returned to the summit, the wind had picked up and the temperature had dropped sharply. I therefore had no trouble resisting the temptation to head off along either of these ridges, though with a bit more gear and perhaps a partner in crime, I probably would have. Instead, I got the German couple that had followed me up to take a quick photo of me and then hastily made my way back down.
Cold
Back at the gondola station, I patiently waited for Mount Triglav (Slovenia’s highest at 2840m, and obviously a big deal as it’s on the flag) to shake off the clouds that had hidden it all morning and reveal itself for a photo. This is as close as it got.
Mount Triglav
On the way down, I met a friendly family from Nelson Bay (a bit north of Sydney) who were visiting Grandma’s country of birth for the first time. They encouraged me to visit the Savica Waterfall, supposedly one of the highlights of the area. As this was right next to the trailhead of the other route, I thought I’d check it out.
Walking four kilometres to go and see a waterfall is not something I would have considered doing in the not too distant past, but the new and improved Jon thought nothing of it, even after walking up and down a rather steep mountain. The walk itself was really quite pleasant, along a quiet winding road through some lovely forest.
Walking through the forest
I was getting a little foot weary though by the time I reached the carpark and was surprised to learn that it was still allegedly another 20 minutes walk up a whole lot of stairs (I remember the aussie Mum mentioning something about 500 stairs – there was a competition for getting the right number so lots of people were counting them). Undeterred, I charged up the stairs, overtaking all sorts of lesser mortals.
The waterfall itself was actually quite small. What was impressive though was the almost vertical cliff opposite it up which the other route I had been recommended supposedly went. It wasn’t clear exactly where it went, but it was bloody steep so I was satisfied that I had made the right call in not attempting it.
Savica Waterfall
Steep!
By the time I got back to Ukanc, I was so hungry that I decided to skip the tourist boat which offered a gentle cruise down the length of the lake, and got the bus back to the other end of the lake. I then sat down at a lakeside cafe and wolfed down a pizza that the waitress tried to talk me out of buying – ‘is frozen, is not good’.
The church
The stone bridge
So, I’d got to walk up a mountain and was treated to some of the most spectacular views I’ve ever seen. It was a great day in a very special place.